Refrigerator Troubleshooting Guide
Dead / No Power
- Check Power Supply:
- Use a multimeter to check the power supply voltage.
- Ensure the voltage is according to Indian standards (230 VAC, 50Hz).
- Confirm the same voltage is available near the input of the PCB board or at the Relay and Overload Protector (OLP) for single-door models without a PCB.
- For PCB Model Refrigerators:
- If input voltage is available at the PCB input, repair or replace the PCB if necessary.
- For Direct Cool Refrigerators:
- If voltage is not available at the relay and OLP terminals, check the thermostat.
- Thermostat Check:
- Set the thermostat knob to medium cooling.
- Use a multimeter in continuity mode:
- 0 ≈ OK (continuity present)
- 1 ≈ Not OK (no continuity)
Power ON but No Cooling
- Direct Cool Refrigerators:
- Check if the compressor is running. A running compressor will produce a slight vibration.
- If the compressor is not working, check the thermostat using the above method.
- If the thermostat is OK, test the relay with a continuity test:
- Insert both probes into the relay terminal slots.
- If there is no reading on the multimeter, replace the relay.
- If the reading is around 20–50 ohms and the buzzer beeps, the relay is good.
- Check the OLP continuity:
- If the reading is within 10 ohms and the buzzer beeps, the OLP is good.
- Finally, check voltage at the relay and OLP. If the voltage is correct, replace the compressor.
- Double Door Refrigerators with PCB Circuit:
- Check the power supply at the relay and OLP terminals (non-inverter models) within 5 minutes.
- If voltage is present, inspect the relay, OLP, and compressor.
Compressor Tests
- The compressor may fail in the following ways:
- Open Winding – Check with a multimeter.
- Short Winding – Check with a multimeter.
- Locked Rotor – Check with a clamp meter (will show high amperage).
- Grounded – Check with a multimeter.
- If any of these conditions are present, the compressor will not function and may need replacement.